The difference shows up after a season, not on the first day. A linen shirt wrinkles because the fiber bends and stays bent. We leave that crease in the design. A wool coat stays plain because the cloth is dense enough to do the work without a lining you can see.
We keep the palette in the same family — cream, oat, olive, charcoal — so a natural fabric works next to the rest of the wardrobe without a second decision. If the cloth is right, the shape can stay for years.